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On The Nationalization Style Design Of Silk Garments (1)

2011/7/29 14:20:00 24


Traditional culture is the soil that every nation depends on. Only by designing the local culture can we create brilliant works.

After a long period of blind pursuit of Western costumes, Chinese clothing industry began to reflect on and deeply study the reasons for the popularity of clothing and its success or failure. More and more people of insight understand that it is difficult to achieve all-round pcendence by pure imitation, so there are many nationalization discussions.

However, there are many problems in the actual design.

The main performance of the national costume is hard to copy, conservative and lack of innovation. The works do not incorporate the spirit of the times into the nationalization design, nor do they show the essence of Chinese clothing such as elegant, natural, casual and implicit.

Nationalized rhetoric has become empty talk.



The first reason is that there is a lack of awareness in the design. Two, there is a lack of clear understanding of the direction and method of the nationalization of clothing.

The narrow concept of design has seriously hindered the further development of nationalized clothing design.

In view of these problems, this paper attempts to make some comprehensive analysis on the three aspects of design nature, design method and design angle.



Design nature: description or guidance?



Generally speaking, the nature of design can be divided into two categories: descriptive design and guiding design.

The question of description is "what is national costume?"

And "why is it like this?"

The guiding design is concerned with "what should the national costume design be?"

The former lies in "knowing", which is how people feel and understand national costumes. The latter is more important than "action" and is the role and change of people in clothing.

Nowadays, most of the nationalized clothing designs belong to the description type.



It must be pointed out that the guiding design can not be guided by the description type. If we want the theory to have a real guiding significance, we must describe, inspect and evaluate the national costume, and see if it is ideal in terms of culture, society, economy and function.

Conversely, the descriptive design cannot be divorced from the guiding theory.

Because if we do not allow a creative design concept to be put into practice and create a new national style, all descriptions and judgments are mere formality and no vitality.

It can be said that the guiding design theory is the process of evaluation and revision of "back to practice".

In this way, the two complement each other perfectly.



Nowadays, most of the design of national silk clothing stays at the level of description, without penetrating into its own unique design concept, and the works designed are mediocre.

It is inseparable from the combination of "Chinese elements" to deliberately Express China's imprint.

For example, the style is nothing more than a pair of buttons, big buttons, buttons and standing collar. When it comes to patterns, the traditional flower plates, flower clusters and applique are invariably fetched, and the color can never jump out of the traditional five colors, which can not keep up with the popular steps.

The euphemistic, refreshing and elegant style of the whole show is pretentious.


Of course, there are also designers who insist on their understanding of traditional culture and emphasize their own ideas in design.

In the fashion week of Shanghai in 2003, designer Tan Yuyan's work runs through her elegant and elegant design style, and does not deliberately stack up Chinese elements. The overall design is simple and generous with modern sense.

Tan Yuyan was influenced by Chinese landscape painting. He was mean by white, black and beige in order to better express his passion for the quiet, indifferent and happy thoughts of Buddhism and Taoism.

On the whole, modern clothing is a strong Chinese style.

This unconventional design method, while describing the fascinating national style, highlights the characteristics of the brand and achieves success.



In short, it is very important to clarify and distinguish the concept of description and guidance design in the nature of design, which helps to fully understand and excavate the potential space and direction of the design concept of national silk garments.

If we look at the source and design of the designer, we will find another important concept that is equally important.

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